Katerina Jebb’s way of documenting fashion, the body, garments and objects is a form of immortalizing diverse (or not) aesthetics and contexts as it goes beyond photography, releasing imagery from any notion of perspective. This painstaking digital scanning process re-contextualizes the gaze (our gaze) onto the historic or contemporary artefacts she encounters in such a precise manner that it feels almost like the work of an archivist. It has already been a year since her major retrospective, Deus exMachina at the Réattu Museum in the French city of Arles, which featured 111 works—the biggest monographic exhibition of her work in 20 years. Continue reading “Katerina Jebb talks to Filep Motwary”
Category: Issue 17
Maxime Büchi
To say Maxime Büchi has been busy is an understatement. Father of three, tattoo artist and founder of Sang Bleu Studio, publisher of the iconic now defunct Sang Bleu magazine and TTTISM magazine, he has also designed fonts for Swiss Typefaces, watches for Hublot and clothes for Sang Bleu Studio. We had a chat in his studio in Dalston to the soundtrack of a continuous buzzing of tattoo needles. Continue reading “Maxime Büchi”
L’Homme Objet: Gaultier’s Male Gaze
Jean Paul Gaultier doesn’t have a menswear line anymore but most of today’s best menswear lines have a bit of Jean Paul Gaultier.
The migration of avant-garde ideas from the university, the art world and intellectual bohemia towards mass commerce and prime-time television marks the cycle of their cultural acceptance, of what is generally understood to be “mainstreaming.” The people you consider marginal end up shaping the reality of your children. The drag queen your father’s generation had locked up now sells lipstick to your daughter. Progressive minds find this is proof of the positive evolution of society. Which is why it’s so disturbing to hear Jean Paul Gaultier say: “I feel that if I were starting now I couldn’t have done what I had done at the time.” Continue reading “L’Homme Objet: Gaultier’s Male Gaze”
Hans Ulrich Obrist talks to Kiriakos Spirou
If we were to make a list of all the professions in the world and write a name next to them, for “curator” we would probably choose the name of Hans Ulrich Obrist. Born in Zurich five decades ago, Hans Ulrich Obrist is perhaps the most recognisable curator of the contemporary art world both inside and outside of it; his open approach to curating across many disciplines since the 1990s has paved the way for new combinations between art and other fields of human expression and knowledge. At the same time, he constantly collaborates with artists to question and reinvent the way we understand and experience art to begin with. A dedicated facilitator and self-proclaimed “helper” of artists everywhere, Hans Ulrich Obrist is at home in the art world but never ceases to travel and explore, both mentally and geographically. He discussed with us his ideas about curating in different contexts, the urgency of curating in the 21st century, and just why everyone uses the #curated hashtag on social media these days. Continue reading “Hans Ulrich Obrist talks to Kiriakos Spirou”
DAPPER DAN X SAINT LAURENT SS18
DAPPER DAN explores Anthony Vaccarello’s continuing transformation of Saint Laurent’s menswear in a film featuring Lennon Gallagher wearing Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello SS18, shot in Volax, Tinos
DAPPER DAN 17 Is Out!
DAPPER DAN is hot off the press with its 17th issue, in which we pore over Anthony Vaccarello’s take at Saint Laurent, probe Jean Paul Gaultier on the male gaze and investigate Clare Waight Keller’s stealth subversion at Givenchy. We also speak to arguably the world’s most famous curator, Hans Ulrich Obrist, who tells us about interviewing artists, and conduct our own artist interview with Katerina Jebb, ahead of the upcoming exhibition at The Met Museum in which she was involved. In addition to this, Swedish blues singer Brør Gunnar Jansson tells about mixing music and storytelling, and we visit multi-talented tattoo artist/designer/publisher Maxime Büchi in his studio in London.